Trail 1, Faaborg

This text is an excerpt from the book about the Archipelago Trail and therefore contains more background, details and inspiration than the short Archipelago Trail leaflets.

This stage leads you through the skipper town of Faldsled, past the manor Steensgaard, and across the high point Trebjerg to the nature centre Trente Mølle.

Faldsled

You can reach Faldsled by bus or tele‑taxi, and there are opportunities to stay at an inn, bed and breakfast or campsite.

Faldsled was established on the lands of the manor Steensgaard as a clearing village at the end of the 1400s. At that time, the fear of attacks from Wendish pirates had faded, and there was no longer a need for the protective belt of forest between the coast and the settlement inland. A clearing village was created by felling and removing the trees, after which people began building houses and cultivating fields. In addition, the people of Faldsled supplemented agriculture with fishing.

In 1664, Faldsled consisted of nine farms. In 1783, the village was “redistributed” like most other villages in Denmark. In Faldsled, a block redistribution was carried out, meaning that nine farms remained along the village’s winding street, and only two farms were moved out onto the fields.

Faldsled developed in the 1800s into a proper skipper town with about ten cargo vessels registered there. This was unusual, because it was the market towns that held trading privileges — at least until 1856.

Agriculture and fishing generated good incomes, and seafaring brought prosperity. The skippers and sailors built fine houses in the village, and you can still see that they are both larger and more elegant than in most other villages.

Faldsled Harbour has today been expanded with a larger marina.

The Archipelago Trail leads you from Faldsled Harbour through Faldsled village to Faldsled Church, built in 1932. From here, you walk east out of the village. The trail follows the boundary between a small woodland and open fields rising towards the north.

Møllebækken

As you approach the manor Steensgaard, the terrain drops south of the trail, and down in the valley runs Møllebækken. The stream was previously dammed, but a riffle has now been established west of Steensgaard. This allows sea trout to once again swim up from Sønderfjord to the stream’s spawning beds.

Steensgaard

The oldest reliable evidence of Steensgaard dates from 1391, when a certain Albert Andersen pawned the estate as his wife Elsebet Henningsdatter Podebusk’s dowry.

The north wing of the main building contains the oldest parts of the structure. It was built around 1550 of split fieldstones, with brick around the windows. Parts of the west wing were built slightly later. The builder was Anders Emmiksen.

Over the years, Steensgaard’s old buildings have undergone several alterations, repairs and replacements. Anders Emmiksen was a man of strong temperament, and he is mentioned several times in old documents concerning various lawsuits. Eventually he spoke so harshly to King Christian III that he was placed under house arrest at Steensgaard.

Anders Emmiksen’s son Otte inherited Steensgaard in 1568. The peasants called him “The Evil One.” He met a grim fate when his third wife, Dorte Mikkelsdatter Hesten, in 1594 persuaded two servants — the cook and a farmhand — to kill him.

The cook is said to have split “The Evil One’s” skull with an axe. Both fled to Flensburg with the money given to them by Dorte. There they became so drunk that they attracted attention and were sent back. The farmhand escaped punishment because the cook took full responsibility. He was executed, cut into four pieces, and placed on the wheel and gallows.

The bishop wrote: “In the year 1594 on the 8th of August, I buried Otte Emmiksen of Steensgaard, pitiably murdered and killed with an axe to his head.”

It is said that his wife’s ghost still haunts Steensgaard.

Together with the manors Hvedholm and Østrupgaard, Steensgaard became part of an entailed estate (stamhus) in 1751. In 1757, Damsbo was added.

There is no public access to Steensgaard.

At Steensgaard, you can take a detour along the so‑called Kløversti (Clover Trail). The trail connects to three other walking/cycling routes of varying length — 2.5 to 10 kilometres — in the Svanninge Hills (Svanninge Bakker) and Svanninge Mountains (Svanninge Bjerge). Together they form a four‑leaf clover with its centre at the Baunebjerg car park near Svanninge.

In several places along the Archipelago Trail, signs refer to the Clover Trail with its four‑leaf symbol. Also see the map.

The Odense–Nørre Broby–Faaborg Railway

Along the paved road at the western edge of Hanneslund Forest, there is a fine forest stone wall. Just where the road enters between Duered and Hanneslund, you should look east — into Hanneslund Forest. Here you can glimpse the old railway embankment from the Odense–Nørre Broby line.

The railway wound its way between the Funen capital, Nørre Broby and Faaborg — a total of approx. 50 kilometres.

It was inaugurated in 1906 by King Frederick VIII and Queen Louise. The line operated until 1954, after which freight and passenger transport were handled by lorries and buses.

Håstrup

Håstrup is not located on the Archipelago Trail, but it is a cosy village with opportunities for shopping and accommodation.

Haastrup was named Village of the Year 2020. The theme of the year was “How do village communities get through a crisis?”, and while insecurity and loneliness marked much of society during the corona crisis, Haastrup closed ranks around its residents and created a joy that flourished during the crisis.

The approximately 325 inhabitants have a strong volunteer network, reflected for example in the local associations, which number around 20 different organisations (2021).

The Village of the Year award is presented annually by the National Council for Rural Areas and the National Association of Villages in Denmark.

The Old Hollow Road

From here, the route continues north and uphill towards Trebjerg along the old hollow road. It is at least 250 years old and lies on the boundary between the lands of Steensgaard and Østrupgaard. Farmers have driven carts, herded cattle, and walked this route for generations, wearing the road more than a metre down into the terrain.

Trebjerg

Trebjerg lies just west of the Archipelago Trail, so treat yourself to a short detour of about 100 metres.

Trebjerg is owned by the Danish Nature Agency, so there is public access. From the top of Trebjerg, which rises 128 metres above sea level, there is a fine view over Helnæs Bay, towards Als and Southern Jutland, and indeed across large parts of Funen.

In spring, Trebjerg also offers a magnificent view of “Syrenlandet” — the Land of Lilacs.

Lilac bushes grow in hedgerows along roads and fields in many places in Southwest Funen. During flowering in May/June, the lilacs create a beautiful sight with long, fragrant, purple bands across the landscape.

The original purpose of the hedgerows was to shield against the strong westerly wind and to mark property boundaries, keeping livestock away from crops in neighbouring fields.

Syrenlandet has its own website with route suggestions and descriptions of specially beautiful “SyrenSpots”.

Church Path to Håstrup

From Trebjerg, the Archipelago Trail continues east through the forest, following an old church path that people from Østrup used when walking to church in Håstrup.

Trente Mølle

Trente Mølle lies about 600 metres east of the Archipelago Trail where it meets the paved road — but it is well worth the detour.

Trente Mølle belonged to Østrupgaard. There has been a watermill here at least since 1632. The water supply comes almost entirely from springs. The windmill on the hill was built in 1872 and is privately owned today. The main building dates from 1886. It was originally constructed with an integrated watermill that could power a threshing machine, grinding stones, centrifuges, and a bread‑kneading machine — as there was also a bakery at Trente at the time.

Mill operations at Trente ceased in 1905, and the site has had various owners and uses since then. The actor Preben Kaas owned the place from 1972 to 1980; he lent it to the rock band Gasolin’ as a rehearsal retreat in 1976. This resulted in the album Efter endnu en dag — or Gas 6. It includes songs such as “Kloden drejer stille rundt” and “Pilli Villi”.

In 1987, the Danish Nature Agency purchased Trente Mølle, which today is a nature interpretation centre with public access, various accommodation options, and a wide range of activities: education, teambuilding, guided walks, mushroom excursions, courses in wild food — and much more.

Trente Mølle also has a “Kys Frøen” (Kiss the Frog) centre for families with children, where you can, for example, try fishing “as granddad did”, learn about the mysterious creatures of the ponds, catch insects, look for curious galls, or cook food over an open fire.